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Sunday, February 13, 2011

Basic kanzashi

Basic kanzashi

  • Bira-bira - also called Fluttering or Dangling style, these are composed of metal strips attached by rings to the body of the ornament so that they move independently, pleasantly tinkling (which is sometimes accentuated by additional bells) or long chains of silk flowers called shidare.
  • Kogai - rods of Becco (tortoiseshell or artificial) or other materials such as ceramics or metals. Kogai means sword in Japanese. This is appropriate because many kogai kanzashi are formed as a pin and a sleeve, like a sword and its sheath. They are often sold as a set with an accompanying kushi comb.
  • Kushi are comb kanzashi rather than pins like the majority of kanzashi. These are usually rounded combs made of tortoiseshell or lacquered wood, often with inlaid mother of pearl or gilding, placed into a mage (bun-style hairdo). The spine of the comb is often wide in order to allow maximum space for the design, and in many cases, the design will extend into the teeth. Also, there are "flower-combs" called hanagushi which are made by gluing folded pieces of silk to a wooden base comb.
  • Kanoko Dome - are heavily jeweled accessories crafted with some or all of the following: gold, silver, tortoiseshell, jade, coral, pearls and other semi-precious stones. While the general shape is rounded, they are also found in other shapes, with flowers and butterflies being the most popular. The kanoko dome is worn at the back of the wareshinobu hairstyle of the junior maiko and has two prongs that hold it securely in the "mage".
  • Ōgi - also called Princess style, they are metal, fan-shaped and kamon-imprinted kanzashi with aluminum streamers held in place by a long pin. These are usually worn by maiko in the hair just above the temple. Very junior maiko wear two.
  • Tsumami Kanzashi - literally, 'folded fabric hair ornament'. Tsumami kanzashi are made from tiny (usually 1") squares of silk which are folded into petals using origami techniques. Flowers are made from these folded fabric petals and may contain anywhere from five petals to 75 or more, depending on the particular flower made. A 'hana kanzashi' is a cluster of these flowers, and may or may not include bira-bira and/or long streamers of tsumami petals, fashioned to look like hanging wisteria petals. Generally, hana kanzashi are worn in pairs, one on either side of the head, often with a complimentary kushi and/or with several individual flowers scattered about the hair.

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