Criticism

Criticism

Mesotherapy treatments have been performed throughout Europe, South America, and more recently the United States for over fifty years. However physicians have expressed concern over the efficacy of mesotherapy, arguing that the treatment hasn't been studied enough to make a determination. The primary issue is that mesotherapy for the treatment of cosmetic conditions hasn't been the subject of gold standard clinical trials; however the procedure has been studied for the pain relief of other ailments, such as tendonitis, tendon calcification, dental procedures, cancer, cervicobrachialgia, arthritis, lymphedema, and venous stasis.^[3] Further, there have been case series and numerous medical papers on the mesotherapy as a cosmetic treatment, as well as studies that employ the ingredients used in mesotherapy.^[4][5]

The other side of the debate is expressed by Rod Rohrich, M.D., Chairman, Dept. of Plastic Surgery, University of Texas Southwestern Medical Center, Dallas: "There is simply no data, no science and no information, to my knowledge, that mesotherapy works." The American Society of Plastic Surgeons issued a position statement not endorsing mesotherapy, but this non-endorsement is the subject of some controversy. Since mesotherapy isn't a surgical treatment but, rather, a non-invasive alternative to plastic surgery, the treatment competes with plastic surgery for the same patients.

The FDA cannot control the use of practitioners injecting various mixtures into patient's bodies because this practice falls under the jurisdiction of state medical boards. This is the case because the mesotherapy is considered a "procedure" by state medical boards. The FDA, on the other hand, is mandated to approve foods, dietary supplements, drugs, vaccines, biological medical products, blood products, medical devices, radiation-emitting devices, veterinary products and cosmetics.

Dr. Robin Ashinoff, speaking for the American Academy of Dermatology, says "A simple injection is giving people false hope. Everybody's looking for a quick fix. But there is no quick fix for fat or fat deposits or for cellulite." The American Society for Dermatologic Surgery informed its members in February 2005 that "further study is warranted before this technique can be endorsed."

Many dermatologists and plastic surgeons are alarmed about the growing profile of mesotherapy. "No one says exactly what they put into the (syringe)," says Naomi Lawrence, a derma-surgeon at the University of Medicine and Dentistry of New Jersey. "One drug they often use, phosphatidylcholine, is unpredictable and causes extreme inflammation and swelling where injected. It is not a benign drug." USAToday 8/4/2004.

It is currently banned in a number of South American countries. Even Brazil, which is less strict than the USA in drug approvals, has banned the drug for these purposes. USAToday 8/4/2004.

In Australia, an alternative therapy salon is being investigated by the Health Department after several clients developed skin abscesses on the calves, buttocks, thighs, abdomen, shoulders, face and neck from the treatment, with one patient also developing a mycobacterial infection

History

History

Dr. Michel Pistor (1924–2003) performed clinical research and founded the field of mesotherapy. Multi-national research in intradermal therapy culminated with Pistor's work from 1948 to 1952 in human mesotherapy treatments. The French press coined the term Mesotherapy in 1958. The French Academy of Medicine recognized Mesotherapy as a Specialty of Medicine in 1987. Popular throughout European countries and South America, mesotherapy is practiced by approximately 18,000 physicians worldwide

Mesotherapy

Mesotherapy (from Greek mesos, "middle", and therapy from Greek therapeia, "to treat medically") is a non-surgical cosmetic medicine treatment. Mesotherapy employs multiple injections of pharmaceutical and homeopathic medications, plant extracts, vitamins, and other ingredients into the subcutaneous fat. Mesotherapy injections allegedly target adipose fat cells, apparently by inducing lipolysis, rupture and cell death among adipocytes.^[1]

Contents

Usage

There are published studies on the clinical treatments and effects of these medications and numerous cocktails of combined chemical compounds on the body have been reported in Europe and South America for several years. There is no conclusive research proof that these chemical compounds work to target adipose (fat cells) specifically. Cell lysis, resulting from the detergent action of deoxycholic, may account for any clinical effect.^[2]

Substances used include:

• T3-T4 thyroid,
• Isoproterenol
• Aminophylline
• Pentoxifylline
• L-carnitine
• L-arginine
• Hyaluronidase
• Collagenase
• Yohimbine
• Lymphomyosot
• Co-enzyme cofactors
• Dimethylethanolamine
• Gerovital
• Glutathione
• Tretinoin
• Alpha lipoic acid
• Vitamin C
• Procaine
• Lidocaine
• Ginkgo biloba
• Melilotus
• C-adenosine monophosphate
• Multiple vitamins
• Phosphatidylcholine
• Trace mineral elements
• Carbon dioxide
• Mesoglycan

Safety

Safety

Because cosmetics are loosely regulated by the FDA, consideration for the ingredients, age, and usage of the mascara is advisable. A substance is considered a cosmetic if it is used in conjunction with the body in a manner that does not alter the structure of the body or its functions. This leaves a great deal of freedom for the beauty industry in the formulation of cosmetics. Of course, some chemicals are explicitly forbidden from inclusion in a cosmetic. These include biothional, choloroform, halogenated salicylanilides, hexachlorophene, methylene chloride, vinyl chloride and mercury compounds. As an exception, mercury compounds can be used as a preservative in eye make-up and so is occasionally found in mascara ^[24].

There is some concern for a select few individual ingredients found in mascara since they have been found to cause cancer in mice, and others are known to be highly toxic to the human body or volatile. Despite these disconcerting facts, they exist in minute quantities in mascara, and their presence has not been positively linked to negatively affect health ^[25].

Proper use of mascara includes disposal of tube and brush after four to six months. Mascara should also be disposed of if found to smell different, strange, or especially pungent. It is unlikely and unusual, but mascara does have the capability to grow bacteria ^[26]. Because of this and the nature of its usage, people using mascara have a slight risk of eye infection or conjunctivitis, but this is rare ^[27].

It is more common to develop a stye, or commoner still, swollen eyelids ^[28]. Stys and swollen eyelids are better classified as allergic reactions. The allergic reactions can be stimulated by any of the components of mascara but is usually attributed to methylparaben, aluminum powder, ceteareth-20, butylparaben, or benzyl alcohol

Manufacture

Manufacture

Which ingredients are chosen also relies on how the mascara is manufactured. Today, there are two main methods of production. The first is referred to as anhydrous. In this method all waxes, oils, and pigments are mixed, heated, and agitated simultaneously in formulated ratios. The result is a semi-solid substance that is ready to be placed in tubes, packaged, shipped and sold. The other method used is termed emulsion. The emulsion method also results in a semi-solid substance, but its procedure greatly differs. In the emulsion method, water and thickeners are first combined. Separately, waxes and emulsifiers are mixed and heated. Pigment is then added individually to both mixtures. Finally all is combined in a homogenizer, which acts as a high-speed agitator in order to thoroughly mix the oils, water, waxes, and emulsifiers—ingredients that naturally repulse each other

Ingredients

Ingredients

The increased demand for mascara led to the development of the many formulas seen in the current market. Despite the many variations, all formulas contain the same basic elements: pigmentation, oils, and waxes.

The pigmentation for black mascara is similar to the pigmentation used by the Egyptians and Victorian women. Carbon black, instead of soot or ash, is used. Tar and coal derivatives are strictly prohibited by the FDA. Brown mascaras typically color by use of iron oxides though the specific compounds are unique to each brand. In some mascaras, an additional pigment of ultramarine blue is added ^[3].

There is a great deal more leeway and variety among the oils used. Different mineral oils, linseed oil, castor oil, eucalyptus oil, lanolin, and oil of turpentine can be found most frequently among the many formulas. Sesame oil is also commonly used ^[3].

Waxes usually found in mascara are paraffin, carnauba wax, and beeswax ^[3].

The desired effects of the mascara account for most variations of ingredients. The most basic effect considered is whether the mascara will be water-resistant or not. Water-resistant mascaras have basis in substances that rebuff water, like dodecane. Non water-resistant mascaras have base ingredients that are water-soluble ^[22]. Mascaras designed to lengthen or curl the eyelashes often contain nylon or rayon microfibers ^[23]. Additionally, ceresin, gum tragacanth, and methyl cellulose are regular ingredients added to act as stiffeners

History

History

Aesthetic adornment is a cultural universal and mascara can be documented in ancient Egypt. Records from around 4000 BC refer to a substance called kohl that was used to darken eyelashes, eyes, and eyebrows ^[3]. Kohl was used to mask the eyes, warding off evil spirits and protecting the soul, by both men and women. Often composed of galena, malachite, and charcoal or soot, crocodile stool, honey, and water was added to keep the kohl from running ^[4]. Through Egypt’s influence, kohl usage persisted in the subsequent Babylonian, Greek and Roman empires. Following the fall of the Roman Empire, kohl fell into disuse on the European continent, where it had been considered solely a cosmetic; conversely, it continued to be widely-used in the Middle East for religious purposes ^[3].

Make-up was considered unsightly and uncouth in Western culture up until the Victorian era. During the Victorian era, social opinion shifted radically towards the promotion of cosmetics, and women were known to spend a majority of their day occupied with beauty regimens. Great efforts were made to create the illusion of long, dark eyelashes ^[5]. Attempting this, Victorian women made a type of mascara in their own homes ^[6]. They would heat a mixture of ash or lampblack and elderberry juice on a plate and apply the heated mixture to their eyelashes ^[7].

The product that people would recognize as mascara today did not develop until the nineteenth century. A chemist named Eugene Rimmel developed a cosmetic using the newly invented petroleum jelly. The name Rimmel became synonymous with the substance and still translates to “mascara” in the Italian, Portuguese, Spanish, Dutch, Turkish, Romanian, and Persian languages today ^[8].

Across the Atlantic Ocean and at roughly the same time, in 1913, a man named T. L. Williams created a remarakably similar substance for his sister Maybel ^[9]. Later in 1917, T. L. Williams started a mail-order business from the product that grew to become the company Maybelline ^[6].

The mascara developed by these two men consisted of petroleum jelly and coal in a set ratio ^[8]. It was undeniably messy, and a better alternative was soon developed. A dampened brush was rubbed against a cake containing soap and black dye in equal proportions and applied to the lashes ^[10]. Still it was extremely messy. No significant improvement occurred until 1957 with an innovation by Helena Rubinstein.

The events leading to Rubinstein’s improvement began in Paris in the early 1900s. There, at the fashion capital of the world, mascara was quickly gaining popularity and common usage ^[11]. Elizabeth Arden and Helena Rubinstein, two giants in the American beauty industry, watched and kept abreast of its development. After the First World War, American consumers became eager for new products ^[12]. Sensing an opportunity, both Rubinstein and Arden launched their own brands of cosmetics that included mascara. Through the efforts of these two rivals and public temperament, mascara finally gained respectability and favor in American society ^[13].

The invention of the photograph and motion picture launched mascara’s popularity and usage further forward in America. Motion pictures especially advertised a new standard of beauty and sex appeal ^[14]. Famous actresses of the classic cinema era, such as Theda Bara, Pola Negri, Clara Bow, Greta Garbo, Marlene Dietrich, Bette Davis, and Jean Harlow, depended heavily upon mascara for their glamorized appearances, which the average woman sought to mimic ^[15].

In 1933, tragedy struck. A woman known on court records as Mrs. Brown consented to have her eyelashes permanently dyed ^[16]. Unfortunately, the product, Lash Lure, used paraphenylenediamine, a chemical extremely toxic to the body, as the dyeing agent ^[17]. At the time, cosmetics were unregulated by the Federal Drug Administration, and the dangers of paraphenylenediamine were unknown ^[18]. Within hours of the treatment, Mrs. Brown began experiencing severe symptoms of stinging and burning eyes. By the next morning, Mrs. Brown’s eyes had developed ulcers which oozed and had swollen shut ^[19]. Use of Lash Lure resulted in blindness in Mrs. Brown and fifteen other women and also caused the death of another. It was only after the Lash Lure incident and several others like it, documented in Ruth deForest Lamb’s book entitled American Chamber of Horrors, that Congress granted the FDA the right to regulate cosmetics in 1938 ^[20].

Years later in 1957, Rubinstein revolutionized mascara. She created a formula that evolved mascara from a hard cake into a lotion-based cream. She packaged the new mascara in a tube to be sold with a brush. For use, the cream was squeezed onto the brush and applied to lashes ^[21]. Although still messy, it was a progressive step towards the modern mascara product.

Soon, a grooved rod was patented. The ingenious device picked up the same amount of mascara for each use. The grooved rod was swiftly altered to the brush similar to the ones used today. The change in applicator led mascara to be even easier to use, and its popularity soared to its present heights

Etymology

Etymology

Exactly where the word “mascara” comes from is unclear, but it is most frequently thought to be based from the Spanish word máscara meaning mask or stain and the Italian word maschera meaning mask ^[1]. The Oxford English Dictionary also cites an alternative Catalan definition that describes soot or a black smear, or a Portuguese root with a connotation of stain or smut. There is even strong support for a possible source from the Arabic word maskharah or buffoon

Surgery

Surgery

Transplant operations are performed on an outpatient basis, with mild sedation (optional) and injected local anesthesia, which typically last about six hours. The scalp is shampooed and then treated with an antibacterial agent prior to the donor scalp being harvested.

In the usual follicular unit procedure, the surgeon harvests a strip of skin from the posterior scalp, in an area of good hair growth. The excised strip is about 1–1.5 x 15–30 cm in size. While closing the resulting wound, assistants begin to dissect individual follicular unit grafts from the strip. Working with binocular Stereo-microscopes, they carefully remove excess fibrous and fatty tissue while trying to avoid damage to the follicular cells that will be used for grafting. The latest method of closure is called 'Trichophytic closure' which results in much finer scars at the donor area.

FUE harvesting negates the need for large areas of scalp tissue to be harvested and can give very natural results with little or no scarring.

The surgeon then uses very small micro blades or fine needles to puncture the sites for receiving the grafts, placing them in a predetermined density and pattern, and angling the wounds in a consistent fashion to promote a realistic hair pattern. The assistants generally do the final part of the procedure, inserting the individual grafts in place.

Hair transplantation

Example of a graft transplantation. (scar of a Hidradenitis suppurativa operation on the back of the head.)

Hair transplantation is a surgical technique that involves moving individual hair follicles from one part of the body (the donor site) to bald or balding parts (the recipient site). It is primarily used to treat male pattern baldness, whereby grafts containing hair follicles that are genetically resistant to balding are transplanted to bald scalp. However, it is also used to restore eyelashes, eyebrows, beard hair, chest hair, and pubic hair and to fill in scars caused by accidents or surgery such as face-lifts and previous hair transplants. Hair transplantation differs from skin grafting in that grafts contain almost all of the epidermis and dermis surrounding the hair follicle, and many tiny grafts are transplanted rather than a single strip of skin.

Since hair naturally grows in follicles that contain groupings of 1 to 4 hairs, today’s most advanced techniques transplant these naturally occurring 1–4 hair "follicular units" in their natural groupings. Thus modern hair transplantation can achieve a natural appearance by mimicking nature hair for hair. This hair transplant procedure is called Follicular Unit Transplantation (FUT). Donor hair can be harvested in two very different ways;

1. Strip Harvesting - a strip of scalp is removed under local anesthesia, the wound is then sutured back together and this piece of scalp tissue is then cut in to small pieces of tissue called grafts which are then transplanted back in to the thinning area of the patients head. This method will leave a linear scar in the donor area, which should be covered by a patients hair (if long). The recovery period is around 2 weeks and will require the stitches to be removed by medical personnel.

2. Follicular Unit Extraction or FUE Harvesting - individual follicles of hair are removed under local anesthesia; this micro removal uses tiny punches of between 0.6mm and 1.25mm in diameter. Each follicle is then reinserted back in to the scalp in the thinning area using a micro blade. Because this is single follicles and no large amount of tissue is removed there is no visible scars or post-surgery pain, with no stitches to be removed. Recovery from FUE is within 7 days.

Perms and chemical straightening

Perms and chemical straightening

Perms and relaxation using relaxer or thermal reconditioning involve chemical alteration of the internal structure of the hair in order to affect its curliness or straightness. Hair that has been subjected to the use of a permanent is weaker due to the application of chemicals, and should be treated gently and with greater care than hair that isn't chemically altered.

Mascara

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Jump to: navigation, search

For other uses, see Mascara (disambiguation).

A mascara tube and a wand applicator

Mascara, a cosmetic commonly used to enhance the eyes, darkens, thickens, lengthens, and/or defines the eyelashes. Normally in one of three forms—liquid, cake, or cream—the modern mascara product has various formulas; however, all contain the same basic components of pigments, oils, waxes, and preservatives

In Media

In Media

Television

Makeovers are often popular television subjects. Long a staple subject of daytime talk shows, they have recently moved into the limelight in television shows such as Queer Eye. Other popular makeover shows include What Not to Wear, How to Look Good Naked, Extreme Makeover, MADE, Ambush Makeover and Pimp My Ride. See makeover reality television series.

Computer software and online tools can also be used for performing what are known as Virtual Makeovers. Using a photograph of a human face, software can apply cosmetics, hairstyles, and various eyewear such as contact lenses and sunglasses in order to allow users to visualize different looks without physically trying them on.

The term is also used with the word "girly" before it. This usually refers to a male going through a makeover into a girl; being dressed up and treated like a girl.

Books

There is also a series of books, aimed at teenage girls, called "The Makeover Series" written by Suzanne Weyn. There are several experts who perform the art of makeovers. Usually makeover artists specialize in hairstyling, make-up or clothing.

"The Makeover Guy" is a registered trademark for author and makeover expert Christopher Hopkins who is known for his television head-to-toe makeovers

Makeover

A makeover is a term applied to changing one's appearance, sometimes through cosmetics. Makeovers can range from something as simple as a new haircut, to the use of cosmetic surgery, to the extreme of the implantation of dental veneers, eye-color-changing contact lenses, and the use of appearance-altering gastric bypass surgeries, providing massive, permanent fat loss in obese persons, and the associated plastic surgeries, such as abdominoplasty, to eliminate the resulting loose-hanging skin folds (the "panniculus").

Bridal Makeup

Bridal Makeup

Bridal Makeup is fast becoming a new segment within a makeup artists repertoire. From ethnic, to glamouros to contemporary, most makeup artists now are a major vendor within the wedding planning space in Asia, Europe and North America.

Special Effects Makeup (FX Makeup)

Special Effects Makeup (FX Makeup)

The use of special effects techniques enhancing physical features to exhibit metaphysical characteristics as well as fantasy makeup. The use of prosthetics and plaster casting are also required for projects that entails non-human appearances. Accents such as theatrical blood and ooze are also techniques applicable to this type of makeup

Theatrical Makeup

Theatrical Makeup

Stage makeup is used as a method in conjunction with stage lighting to highlight the actors' faces in order make expressions visible to the audience from moderate distances. This often includes defining the eyes and lips as well as the highlights and lowlights of the facial bones.

Fashion Makeup

Fashion Makeup

Fashion makeup is used in magazine photography as well as on the fashion runway. Avant Garde Makeup^[9] is also an applicable technique used for projects that require experimental themes. Fashion makeup is also commonly used in television and film ranging for the natural prime look to more sophisticated applications such as color balance.

Make-up artist

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Makeup artist backstage at the Lee Matthews show, Spring/Summer 2007 Australia Fashion Week

An international-certified professional makeup artist (Michelle Camaclang)

Special effects makeup techniques

A makeup artist is an artist whose medium is the human body, applying makeup^[1][2] and prosthetics for theatrical, television, film, fashion, magazines and other similar productions including all aspects of the modeling industry. Awards given for this profession in the entertainment industry include the Academy Award for Makeup^[3] and even several entertainment industry awards such as the Emmy awards^[4][5] and the Golden Globes^[6] to name a few. In the United States as well as the other parts of the globe, professional licenses are required by agencies in order for them to hire the MUA. Bigger production companies^[7] have in-house makeup artists on their payroll although most MUA’s generally are freelance^[8] and their times remain flexible depending on the projects

Lip plumper

Lip plumper is a cosmetics product used to make lips appear fuller. In appearance, it ranges from translucent to opaque and tinted. A lip plumper can be formulated to be worn alone as a lip gloss. Sheerer versions can be applied under lipstick.

Lip plumpers are used by those with thinner lips when full, "pouty" lips are desired। These products typically work by irritating the thin, delicate skin of the lips with ingredients like menthol or camphor. This makes the lips swell slightly, which may also diminish the appearance of fine lines in that area. Other perceived benefits include stimulating collagen production and moisturizing. A lip plumper's effects are temporary, so it must be reapplied throughout the day to maintain the results.

n

Lip liner

Lip liner, also known as lip pencil, is a cosmetic product. It is intended to fill uneven areas on the outer edges of the lips after applying lipstick, therefore giving a smooth shape. It is also used to outline the lips, keeping lipstick inside the lip area and preventing it from "bleeding". The product is usually sold in a retractable tube or pencil form. Lip liner is usually available in the same range of colors as lipsticks: e.g., reds, pinks, browns, plums, etc

Types of Like lipstick,

Types

Like lipstick, lip gloss comes in a variety of forms and may be applied in different ways. It can be contained in a small cylindrical bottle and applied with a rounded or sloped applicator wand (known as a doefoot applicator), be applied with a built in lip brush, or a small tube designed for application with the fingertip. Solid glosses come in boxes and tubes, sometimes blurring the distinction between lip gloss and lip balm.

New types of "plumping" lip gloss contain ingredients which make the lips appear softer and plumper. These are a cheap, easy, and harmless alternatives to collagen, Restylane, Juvederm, and/or fat injections, but are often not as effective. The effects are temporary and short-lasting.

Lip gloss is often used when a person wants to have some color on their lips, but does not want an intense, solid lip color effect (i.e. a more "made-up" look), as lipstick would create. Lip gloss is also often used as a sort of introduction to makeup. It's often used by preteen and young teenage girls who want to wear some makeup, but are too young to wear a more intense lipstick color.

In 2009, a UK cosmetic company was the first company to include a Drink Spike Detector strip packaged with their Lip Gloss. Due to a sharp rise in Drink Spiking, Tracy Whittaker, CEO of 2 Love My Lips, made a conscious effort to raise the awareness of Drink Spiking by combining the two products. Completely supported by the Roofie Foundation, 2 Love My Lips is now sold in over 10 countries worldwide.

How To Run A Beauty Salon: Permits Maureen Farrell, 04.20.07, 6:00 PM ET pic Complete Coverage How To Run A Beauty Salon: • Best Role Model • Exter

How To Run A Beauty Salon: Permits

Every new business owner needs to know the fundamentals. Forbes.com is breaking down those building blocks by answering eight core questions related to a given industry. Taken together, the information will give budding entrepreneurs a head start on making those first critical steps.

What permits do I need to open a beauty salon?

You and your staff probably shelled out thousands of dollars and spent a few years learning your craft. Thankfully, obtaining a state license to operate a salon is cheap and quick. "It's actually one of the easiest things you'll do when getting started," says Laurence Seybold, owner of Milwaukee-based salon Carenza.

But first, as with any small business, you need to establish the corporate structure--probably a limited liability company. This involves filing articles of incorporation or organization. Once established, you'll be able to secure a federal tax identification number, which registers your business with the federal government so Uncle Sam can take his cut of your salon's cash flow.

Scheduling an appointment with the relevant state agency--usually the state's department of cosmetology--shouldn't take more than a few days. Licenses to operate a salon typically cost between $100 and $2,000, depending in part on the length of the license.

To meet the requirements, your salon will need to pass muster with electrical, sanitation and fire codes. You also will need to prove that you and your employees carry the necessary licenses to tease those locks; peddling manicures, pedicures or massages requires additional licenses.

A SLOW tribute to the beauty of asian/european girls

A SLOW tribute to the beauty of asian/european girls

is it just me or am i liek the only one who dousent find gooks appiling :S
they arnt that atractive
i mean they are slightly
but hell we have none of those type here in australia they all live in japan lol
but yeah really they just dont seem attractive and beautiful to me
i like aryan (white, europian decent) girls, like my ex her familys line gose to germany and finland were mine come from germany and irland :D lol
and my ex befor her her family came from iralnd and poland
hail the aryan race :D
hail the aryan race :D
Hahah, no I kind of agree with you coffin-feeder. The girls Badwolf posts are good looking, but not the type I prefer.
European for me. But not white blonde, kind of over that. Dark haired :)
Badwolf needs to make a thread like this for European, maybe Italian or French girls. I'm not saying they're better but I just prefer that type.
Basically it's a all a matter of preference, normally white guys go for white girls and Asian guys go for Asian girls etc etc.
BTW gook is bloody racist, and not only that it refers to one type of Asian, Vietnamese

Kohl (cosmetics)

18th century Somali kohl pot.

Kohl is an ancient eye cosmetic. It was made by grinding galena (lead sulfide) and other ingredients. Today the trend is to make it without poisonous ingredients. It is widely used in the Middle East, North Africa, the Horn of Africa and South Asia to darken the eyelids and as mascara for the eyelashes. It is used mostly by women, but also some men and children,

Kohl goes by numerous names: Arabic: كحل‎ kuḥl; Hindi: काजल kājal; Kurdish: کل; Urdu: کاجل kājal; Malayalam: കൺ‌മഷി kaNmashi / സുറുമ suRuma; Kannada: ಕಾಡಿಗೆ ; Somali: kuul; Telugu: కాటుక Katuka; Tamil: கண் மை Kan Mai. It is also known as kol, kehal or kohal in the Arab world, and surma or kajal in South Asia.c

Kohl has been worn traditionally as far back as the Bronze Age (3500 B.C. onward) by the Egyptian queens. It was originally used as protection against eye ailments. There was also a belief that darkening around the eyes would protect one from the harsh rays of the sun. India's oldest caste, the koli, used kohl as a cosmetic. In addition, mothers would apply kohl to their infants' eyes soon after birth. Some did this to "strengthen the child's eyes", and others believed it could prevent the child from being cursed by the evil eye.^[1]

Kohl's ancient importance survives through its use as the etymological root for the English word alcohol.

Potential dangers

Potential dangers

The search for new ingredients and products often brings controversy, typically over ingredients whose function is unproven or disputed.^{[citation needed]}

There are few potential dangers regarding the use of cosmetics. One such danger is the use of old mascara. Some mascaras contain an ingredient that breaks down to produce formaldehyde. The formaldehyde prevents the growth of bacteria. Aged mascara, however, may no longer be producing formaldehyde, allowing bacteria to proliferate. For this reason, it is often recommended to replace a tube of mascara every few months .^[17][18]

In one well-known case, Buddy Ebsen was originally cast as the "Tin Man" in the The Wizard of Oz. Aluminium dust was used to create a tin effect. As the result of an allergic reaction, he was hospitalized and Jack Haley replaced him. Aluminium dust was, instead, added to a paste

Regulation

Regulation

Legislation varies from country to country but most countries have some sort of formal legislation that either restrict or prohibit certain ingredients or products. There are two main sources for cosmetics safety. The EU Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EEC and the Canadian Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist.[3][4]

A new version of the EU's Cosmetics Directive was adopted by the European Parliament, 24 March 2009.^[14] It namely includes new rules concerning the use of nanoparticles in cosmetics and includes stricter rules on animal testing of cosmetics.^[15]

Cosmetic colourants are highly regulated and also used as food dyes.^{[citation needed]} . Each country or group of countries has their own regulatory agency that controls what can go into cosmetics. In the United States, the regulating body is the Food and Drug Administration. Aside from color additives, cosmetic products and their ingredients are not subject to FDA regulation prior to their release into the market. It is only when a product is found to violate Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) and Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA) after its release that the FDA may start taking action against this violation. The FDA may request a recall if the company refuses to remove an unsafe product from the market, work with the Department of Justice to remove contaminated or misbranded products, request a restraining order to prevent further shipments of contaminated or misbranded products, and take action against the company violating the law. A company may use any ingredient, other than color additives and those ingredients banned from use in cosmetics through regulation, as long the completed product and its ingredients is safe, is properly labeled, and isn’t contaminated or misbranded under the FD&C Act and the FPLA. FDA can and does perform inspections.

Perfume

Perfume

Main article: History of perfume

Islamic cultures contributed significantly in the development of western perfumery in both perfecting the extraction of fragrances through steam distillation and introducing new, raw ingredients. Both of the raw ingredients and distillation technology significantly influenced western perfumery and scientific developments, particularly chemistry.^[6]

As traders, Islamic cultures such as the Arabs and Persians had wider access to different spices, herbals, and other fragrance material. In addition to trading them, many of these exotic materials were cultivated by the Muslims such that they can be successfully grown outside of their native climates. Two examples of this include jasmine, which is native to South and Southeast Asia, and various citrus, which are native to East Asia. Both of these ingredients are still highly important in modern perfumery.^[6]

The Crusaders brought alcohol-based perfumes back to Europe from the Middle East in the 13th Century.^[7] The first modern perfume, made of scented oils blended in an alcohol solution, was made in 1370 at the command of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary and was known throughout Europe as Hungary Water. France quickly became the European centre of perfume and cosmetic manufacture, cultivating vast amounts of flowers for their essence. By the 18th century, aromatic plants were being specifically grown in the Grasse region of France to provide the growing perfume industry with raw materials.^[

Types of cosmetics

Types of cosmetics

Facial cosmetics

The Romans and ancient Egyptians used cosmetics containing mercury.^{[citation needed]}

Foundation

Women of Roman Britain used a foundation made from animal fat, starch and tin oxide.^[4]

Lipstick

Main article: Lipstick

Lips with various shades of lipstick applied.

Lipstick is known to have been used around 5000 years ago in ancient Babylon, when semi-precious jewels were crushed and applied to the lips and occasionally around the eyes. Ancient Egyptians extracted purplish-red dye from fucus-algin, 0.01% iodine, and some bromine mannite, which resulted in serious illness. Cleopatra had her lipstick made from crushed carmine beetles, which gave a deep red pigment, and ants for a base.^[5]

The red color of modern lipstick can come from synthetically derived pure iron oxide (one of the components of rust), however most leading brands use the more economical synthetic colors. In the United States, every batch of synthetic dye and pigment must have a sample sent to the US FDA for testing and certification that the batch is pure and its contaminants are below the levels specified by law (Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act CHAPTER VII—GENERAL AUTHORITY SUBCHAPTER B—COLORS LISTING AND CERTIFICATION OF COLOR ADDITIVES FOR FOODS, DRUGS, AND COSMETICS [1]). Synthetic colours are listed in the ingredients as a code (e.g.: F &D red no 6) and may contain up to 10 parts per million of lead / 3 parts per million of arsenic. (Code of Federal Regulations, Title 21, Volume 1 -FOOD AND DRUGS, CHAPTER I—FOOD AND DRUG ADMINISTRATION, DEPARTMENT OF HEALTH AND HUMAN SERVICES, PART 74—LISTING OF COLOR ADDITIVES SUBJECT TO CERTIFICATION) There is some controversy over the presence of these trace ingredients, especially since makeup worn on the lips is not just absorbed through the skin, but also swallowed with drinking and eating. Since lowering these levels would make the production and sale of practically all lipstick illegal, and since the FDA has determined that the existing levels are safe, the cosmetic industry continues to produce and sell lipstick. (Color Additives: FDA's Regulatory Process and Historical Perspectives)[2]

Typically, the pigment is crushed very finely (7 to 10 micrometres) while being mixed with castor oil and is then mixed with a wax base to form a finished lipstick.

Lipsticks may be sheer or dense, matte or shiney. In their thinnest and most fluid consistency they are given their own category, lipgloss.

Cosmeceutical

Cosmeceuticals represent the marriage of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Examples of products typically labeled as cosmeceuticals include anti-aging creams and moisturizers. Cosmeceuticals are cosmetic products with biologically active ingredients purporting to have medical or drug-like benefits. Dermatological research suggests that the bioactive ingredients used in cosmeceuticals do indeed have benefits beyond the traditional moisturizer (e.g., Chen et al., 2005^[1]; Zettersten, Ghadially, Feingold, Crumrine, & Elias, 1997^[2]). However, despite the reports of benefits from some cosmeceutical products, the term cosmeceutical remains a marketing term, as there are no requirements to prove that the products actually live up to their claims. Therefore it is up to the consumer to decide whether these claims are valid and worth the cost.

An important distinction lies in the delivery method. The "cosmeceutical" label applies only to products applied topically, such as creams, lotions, and ointments. Products which are similar in perceived benefits but ingested orally are known as nutricosmetics.

Corpse paint outside metal

Corpse paint outside metal

Corpse paint has been associated mainly with black metal and metal in general, but it has inspired artists in music and other entertainment businesses:

• The Misfits, an influential punk rock band, wore corpse paint and had lyrics with horror and science fiction references.
• Horrorcore hip hop duo Twiztid is known for wearing corpse paint.
• In the fall of 1996, professional wrestler Sting began wearing corpse paint in a persona inspired by the film The Crow featuring Brandon Lee.
• Another professional wrestler, The Undertaker, wore make-up similar to corpse paint in the mid-90s in reference to his stage name.
• Japanese Pro wrestler, Onryo, uses extensive corpse paint.
• Professional wrestler, Jeff Hardy, wore corpse paint similar to Nattefrost, vocalist of Carpathian Forest.
• Also, Mexican Wrestler Chessman uses Red and Black Corpse paint.
• In the music video for The Perfect Weapon by Black Veil Brides, the band members are seen wearing corpse paint.

History and usage

History and usage

The earliest rock groups to decorate themselves with makeup similar to corpse paint included Arthur Brown in the 1960s, Alice Cooper, Secos & Molhados and KISS in the 1970s, and, later that decade, punk rockers like The Misfits and singer David Vanian of The Damned. The look was also to achieve what most bands call "Utter Brutality", it was also unintentionally popularized in 1977 through a series of McDonald's print advertisement campaigns featuring black-and-white photographs of company mascot Ronald McDonald. In the ads, Ronald's face paint looked very similar to corpse paint, causing fans of bands like KISS to collect and even steal copies of magazines with the ads.^{[citation needed]}

Hellhammer and King Diamond of Mercyful Fate (who used corpse paint as early as 1978 in his band Black Rose) were perhaps the first death or black metal groups to use corpse paint in the early 1980s. Other groups soon followed suit, including Hellhammer's later incarnation Celtic Frost. Brazilian band Sarcófago also pioneered the look, being dubbed by Metal Storm magazine as the first band with a "true" corpsepaint.^[1] Early corpse paint designs were intended simply to accent an individual's features and make them look "dead". Later designs typically incorporated more detailed patterns to improve a "demonic" look (most notably Immortal and King Diamond).

Norwegian black metal bands from the late 1980s and early '90s (such as Mayhem, Gorgoroth, Emperor, Immortal, Darkthrone, Dimmu Borgir, and Satyricon) are arguably responsible for maintaining the popularity of the corpse paint among today's black metal acts

Concealer

Various types of concealer, matched to skin tone.

A concealer or colour corrector is a type of makeup used to mask pimples, dark circles and other small blemishes visible on the skin. Concealers usually do a good job of hiding blemishes by blending the imperfection into the surrounding skin tone. This product is mainly used by women, but use among men is increasing.

Both concealer and foundation are typically used to make skin appear more uniform in color. These two types of cosmetics differ in that concealers tend to be more heavily pigmented, though they are available in a wide range of opacity. Also, foundation is usually applied to larger areas. The first commercially available concealer was Max Factor's erace, launched in 1938. Concealer can be used alone or in conjunction with foundations.

Concealer is available in a variety of shades, from lightest to deepest. Some colors are intended to look like a natural skin tone, while others are meant to contrast with a particular type of blemish. White can be used to blur dark circles or bruising, and to brighten dull skin. Green and blue can counteract red patches on the skin, such as those caused by pimples, broken veins, or rosacea. A purple-tinted concealer can make shallow complexions look brighter. Colored concealers such as these are usually applied sparingly beneath a concealer or foundation that matches the wearer's skin tone. Skin-toned concealers are not only the most common type, but are often sufficient on their own at hiding or blurring imperfections.

Modern formulation

Modern formulation

Cold cream now replaces the olive oil with mineral oil or other oils, which are slower to spoil, as well as alcohol, glycerin, and lanolin.^[1] Beginning in the 1970s, jojoba oil became a common ingredient.^[1] Another common ingredient in modern cold cream is borax, which is also responsible for the whiteness of cold cream. Widely sold brands of cold cream in the United States include Pond's and Noxzema.

Over the centuries, new uses have been found for the product: "As a toilet requisite cold cream is used for softening and cooling the skin after sunburn, as a cleansing cream, to relieve harshness of the skin, etc"

History

History

The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics consumer campaign began in 2002 with the release of a report, "Not Too Pretty: Phthalates, Beauty Products and the FDA".

• For the report, environmental and public health groups contracted with a laboratory to test 72 name-brand, off-the-shelf beauty products for the presence of phthalates, a family of industrial chemicals linked to permanent birth defects in the male reproductive system.

• The lab found phthalates in nearly three quarters of the products tested, though the chemicals were not listed on any of the labels. A second report, "Pretty Nasty", documented similar product test results in Europe.

• In October 2005, the Environmental Working Group released "Skin Deep: A Safety Assessment of Ingredients in Personal Care Products" (website). This computer investigation into the health and safety assessments on more than 10,000 personal care products found major gaps in the regulatory safety net for these products. Also available is an online rating system that ranks products on their potential health risks and the absence of basic safety evaluations. The core of the analysis compares ingredients in 7,500 personal care products against government, industry, and academic lists of known and suspected chemical health hazards.

Visual effects

Visual effects

Strong red colours for eye products have been produced using the dye carmine, made from carminic acid extracted form the crushed bodies of the cochineal insect.^{[citation needed]} Carmine was once the only bright red color permitted by the FDA for use around the eye.^{[citation needed]}

Titanium dioxide

Pearlescence, also sometimes spelled as "pearl essence", is a shine or gloss effect commonly used in a wide variety of cosmetic products. The most usual source of pearlescence is the natural mineral mica covered by a thin layer of titanium dioxide. This coating causes goniochromism – the colour appears through interference effects with the naturally translucent mica, and varying the thickness of the titanium dioxide changes the colour.^[3] Alternatives exist, including the suspension of tiny flakes of a suitable material within the product, often a wax such as glycol distearate. A shimmery substance found on fish scales, most usually obtained from herring and one of many by-products of commercial fish processing, can also be used for pearlescent effects, primarily in nail polish, but is now rarely used due to its high cost, bismuth oxychloride flakes being used as a substitute instead.^[2]

Common ingredients

Common ingredients

Castor oil and its derivatives are found in many cosmetics as it is "non-comedogenic" (does not exacerbate or contribute to acne).^[1]

Cerebrosides (cells from the nervous systems of cattle or swine) were once used in some high-end skin-care products to increase moisture retention and to create a smooth skin surface,^[2] however the BSE controversy has put an end to this practice.^{[citation needed]}

In many countries colours in cosmetics are listed as numbers from the Colour Index International. The scheme covers colours used in food, personal care products, cosmetics, household products and fabric dyeing. So, for example you will not normally see tartrazine listed in lipstick ingredients, but it may be there listed as C.I. 19140. Erythrosine will be listed as C.I. 45430, and so on. In US and Canada colors are listed as FD & C colors. tartrazine (E012) is FD & C Yellow 5 and erythrosine (E127) is FD & C Red 3.

Ingredients of cosmetics

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Assorted cosmetics and tools

Cosmetics ingredients come from a variety of sources but, unlike the ingredients of food, are often not considered by most consumers. Cosmetics often use vibrant colours that are derived from some unexpected sources, ranging from crushed insects to rust. Many new techniques have allowed manufacturers to synthesise such colours and the use of animals (or parts thereof) has been declining for many years and is now virtually eliminated, due in large part to the efforts of Beauty Without Cruelty, PETA and other groups.^{[citation needed]}

Cosmetics in a variety of forms date back to early civilizations, with the need to improve ones personal appearance being an important factor in attracting a mate. Over the years the ingredients have changed dramatically as we discovered how to manufacture our own scents and cosmetic formulae. The realisation of the dangers of many common ingredients also greatly affected the growing industry.^{[citation needed]}

Ancient Egyptian aristocracy made use of minerals to provide colour and definition to their facial features. During the era of the Greek Empire it was common to use face paints, while the Romans indulged in baths containing oil-based perfume.

Cosmetics Directive

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The directive defines a "cosmetic product" as "any substance or preparation intended for placing in contact with the various external parts of the human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips and external genital organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a view exclusively or principally to cleaning them, perfuming them or protecting them in order to keep them in good condition, change their appearance or correct body odours." (Art. 1.1)

The main part of the directive is the different lists of substances in the annexes:

• substances that are banned from use in cosmetics (Annex II)
• substances that are subject to restrictions on their use (Annex III): such substances might only be permitted for certain types of cosmetics, or in certain concentrations, or subject to warning labels, etc.
• permitted colourings (Annex IV)
• permitted preservatives (Annex VI)
• permitted UV filters (Annex VII)

The annexes are regularly amended (57 times up until April 2008) to take account of new data on the safety of particular substances

Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association

Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association (CTFA) was founded in 1894 as the Manufacturing Perfumers' Association and was renamed to the American Manufacturers of Toilet Articles (AMTA) in 1922;^[1] in 1970 the association adopted the name Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association.^[2] In November 2007, the name was changed to the Personal Care Products Council. Mark Pollak was named interim President in the wake of President Pam Bailey's resignation in December 2008.^[3]

Company structure

The company has five main departments:^[4]

• Science Department: research and development.
• Legislative Departments: state and federal lobbying.
• International Department: communication, changes in cosmetic regulation and anti-counterfeiting.
• Legal Department: takes appropriate against court decisions and regulatory agencies.
• Public Affairs Department: monitors media and distributes information to the media.

Challenges

California Safe Cosmetics Act

CTFA reportedly spent over $600,000 on lobbyists in Sacramento in the months before the vote on Senate Bill 484 (California Safe Cosmetics Act of 2005) to attempt to prevent the bill from passing.^[5][6]

Nanotechnology safety concerns

In 2006, Friends of the Earth and International Center for Technology Assessment filed a formal petition with the Food and Drug Administration for better monitoring and regulating of products containing harmful nanoparticles and stated they would sue if the FDA does not take adequate action in 180 days.^[7] CTFA vice president spoke out against the petition and stated, "I don't think there's anything to worry about ... All of the safety questions have been answered [in previous studies]."