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Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Setting Hair: Which Products Work Best?

Setting Hair: Which Products Work Best?


Setting hair is most effective when each section of hair that is wrapped is given a quick dose of setting spray.

This way, you can do roller sets on dry hair. A huge plus because it means that you only wait for the product to dry, rather than an entire head of wet hair.

Much faster.

Setting hair this way also creates a softer, more natural looking curl and eliminates the obvious partings that result on the scalp when setting wet hair.

The products featured here are ideal for hair sets with velcro or rag rollers. But they're are also working hair sprays. Very effective for thermal hair setting, involving heat styling tools (i.e., hot rollers, curling irons, flat irons).

Hair Pomade: Do You Need It?

Hair Pomade: Do You Need It?


Hair pomade is a great product for adding shine and a bit of separation to a hair style.

Great for controlling frizz and even repelling humidity if you get the right product.

Don't expect any holding power with hair pomade, though.

It's essentially just a slippery coating that'll shine your hair up and tame it a bit.

If you like the effects of a pomade on your hair but want a bit of hold for more control, mix it in your palm with a liquid or strong hold gel before applying.

If you have fine hair, pomade is not the best choice. A liquid glossing product or a be better. Although you may have good results with a pomade if your fine hair is frizzy and you live in a very humid or very dry climate.

How to Use Pomade

Use these products very sparingly by emulsifying the hair pomade into your palms until it's barely there. Then skim gently over the surface of the hair, coaxing stray hairs into the natural waves where they're supposed to be.

Follow through to the ends for best definition... and don't forget about the back.

Hair Spray: Get The Best, Forget The Rest

Hair Spray: Get The Best, Forget The Rest


The hair spray you choose depends on the hair styling process.

If you do alot of intricate styling, it's a good idea to have both a working spray and a finishing spray.

Hairspray comes in aerosol and pump forms, which you choose is strictly personal preference.

Generally, the aerosol products dry faster. Some people are partial to the pump action sprays simply because they're less impactful on the environment.

This page breaks down the best of the best in each of the following categories.

Hair Wax, Clay, Mud, Paste & Putty

Hair Wax, Clay, Mud, Paste & Putty

Products To Create Texture in the Hair


Hair wax and other texturizers can be used before or after drying the hair.

Be cautious of how much you're applying, though. Add a little at a time and make sure you purchase a product that's right for your hair type.

See our suggestions below for some of the best hair waxes, pastes and putties below.

Texturizing products are designed to increase movement and create visible separation in the hair.

Define waves or maximize peaks throughout your hair with one of these great products.

NEUTRALIZING BRASSY TONES

NEUTRALIZING BRASSY TONES

PREPARE THE HAIR

A porosity equalizer that helps ensure even color results. Prevents over-porous areas from grabbing too much ash or other pigments and taking on an unwanted tone.

If you've been lightening your hair with permanent hair color, you've probably noticed that it's become more difficult with time to get the brassy-yellow tones out.

That's because as we mature, our hair naturally darkens and the to a point where the neutralizing pigments in hair color can't combat the yellow/orange tones as effectively.

You may need to kick it up a notch and pre-lighten by

If you're mixing hair toner for most blonding processes, look for a light or lightest ash blonde tone. However, because overly porous hair tends to absorb mostly the ash tones from hair color, if you're coloring this type of hair, add in some neutral... even a bit of light golden blonde. If you still get a muddy looking color, forgo the ash entirely.

Hair Toner: Toning Hair Tips and Techniques

Hair Toner: Toning Hair Tips and Techniques


Advice on using hair toner effectively to rid the hair of unwanted hues.

Surely you've heard the expression 'bleach and tone'? Toning hair is done to neutralize brassy (yellow or yellow/orange) pigments.

After bleaching hair is the most common time for using hair toner.

Because bleach leaves the hair in a raw-pigment state which is less-than-attractive, you need to add back pigments to create a 'natural' look. So... whip up a toner!

Step Three - Understand the Color Wheel

Step Three - Understand the Color Wheel

The color wheel is a universal chart which shows how all colors are created from just three basic (primary) colors. Here's how it goes...

Primary Colors (inner circle) - Red, Yellow, and Blue

Secondary Colors (middle ring) - Orange, Green, and Purple
Secondary colors are made by mixing 2 primary colors together:

  • Red + Yellow = Orange
  • Red + Blue = Purple
  • Blue + Yellow = Green

Tertiary Colors (outer ring)
Created by mixing primary and secondary colors together:

  • Yellow + Orange = Orange/Yellow
  • Yellow + Green = Yellow/Green (lime green)
  • Blue + Green = Blue/Green
  • Blue + Purple = Blue/Violet
  • Red + Purple = Red/Violet
  • Red + Orange = Red/Orange
Why is the hair color wheel so important?...

1) All hair color is comprised of different ratios of the primary colors (red, yellow, blue).

2) It clearly illustrates which colors neutralize which...find the primary color you want to tone away and look directly across the chart to the opposite secondary color.

Step Two - Identify Your Underlying Pigment

Step Two - Identify Your Underlying Pigment

Hair color chart.


A hair coloring process that involves any amount of hydrogen peroxide (which can include some semi-permanent formulas) will bring out the natural underlying pigment of your hair.

The "natural looking" tone that's visible as your hair color is not the true tone when it comes to the chemistry of hair coloring.

Think of it as a surface layer that's stripped away, and laying in wait underneath are the bold and brassy tones of your underlying pigment.

The chart above clearly illustrates which color of underlying pigment corresponds with the natural level you identified in step one. So now you know what you're dealing with.

Step One - Identify Natural Haircolor Level

Step One - Identify Natural Haircolor Level

An international system is used to identify the level of darkness of your hair, 1 being the darkest (black) and 10 being the lightest (blonde). Match your hair (just the regrowth if it's previously colored) to the hair color swatch below that most closely resembles the darkness of your haircolor...not necessarily the tone, which could be warm(red), cool(ash), or neutral, but the degree of lightness or darkness.

Hair Coloring Success

Hair Coloring Success

The Hair Color Wheel


There are some very specific rules that come into play with hair coloring.

This page outlines the basic chemistry involved and highlights some of the most critical rules to keep in mind.

Knowing where you're starting, where you're going and what to expect along the way is the best way to ensure good results from your color.

Here's the formula... nice 'n simple...

FINISHING COLOR

FINISHING COLOR

Either permanent or semi-permanent will work for the finished color. Permanent is better if you've gone a bit overboard with the filler and need a formula with a bit more oomph to neutralize out more of the orange. Otherwise, go with semi(or demi)-permanent.

Semi-permanent is deposit only, which is exactly what you need to get your hair darker. There's no need for the ammonia and peroxide contained in permanent colors when all you want to do is deposit a darker color. So semi-permanent is always my personal choice for that purpose.

Semi-permanent pigment is also more likely to fade, and you may find that to be a good thing. Especially on extremely porous hair which can end up going darker than expected.

If it fades, simply re-apply as needed.

Or prevent color loss by using a colored shampoo and conditioner like icon. These special pigmented cleansers and conditioners deposit a slight color on your hair which deepens your shade and keeps your color looking fresh.

Color Back

Color Back

From Light to Dark Hair


A color back is the process of taking an artificial blonde back to a darker shade.

There are a few essential steps for getting an even, natural looking color that will last.

This article will take you through the process so you can avoid any mishaps.

A blue/grey/green cast is a common outcome with a color back process.

The blonde hair is over-porous and will absorb the blue pigments in the color formula moreso than the red and yellow. So adding some of those warm pigments back to the hair is important.

Hair Color Articles

Hair Color Articles
Expert Advice for Optimal Results


Questions about hair color? This page offers articles with professional advice on a wide range of processes from highlighting hair with foils to coloring grey hair, and more.

Oh, the tantalizing array of choices. Something new every season. New products, new trends... Limitless possibilities!

Exciting?... You bet! But the range of options can also be overwhelming. Boxes of color, row upon row, it can all become a bit of a blur.

These articles will help to demystify the art and science of coloring your own hair.