Hair coloring

A hairdresser colors a client's hair.

Hair coloring is the practice of changing the color of hair. Common reasons are to cover gray hair, to change to a color regarded as more fashionable or desirable, and to restore the original hair color after it has been discolored by hairdressing processes or sun bleaching.

History

In the 1661 book Eighteen Books of the Secrets of Art & Nature, various methods of coloring hair black, gold, green, red, yellow, and white are explained.^[1]

Hair dye, or hair color, is a chemical preparation used to change the color of a person's hair. Hair dye is used to cover gray hair, which in some cultures has historically been considered to be a sign of aging (in others, a sign of wisdom and grace). Younger people may color their hair as a fashion statement or because they want to change their hair color.

The Romans have been known to be interested in changing hair color and history revealed that they created over a hundred recipes using natural ingredients. These preparations could only darken hair. In Renaissance time, blonde was a popular choice because it was considered to be angelic and attractive.

In 1907, Eugene Schueller, the founder of L'Oreal, created the first synthetic hair dye, but it wasn't widely sold.

Types of Pack conditioners

Types

• Pack conditioners, are heavy and thick, with a high content of surfactants able to bind to the hair structure and "glue" the hair surface scales together. These are usually applied to the hair for a longer time. The surfactants are based on long straight aliphatic chains similar to saturated fatty acids. Their molecules have a tendency to crystallize easily, giving the conditioner higher viscosity, and they tend to form thicker layers on the hair surface.
• Leave-in conditioners are thinner and have different surfactants which add only a little material to the hair. They are based on unsaturated chains, which are bent rather than straight. This shape makes them less prone to crystallizing, making a lighter, less viscous mixture and providing significantly thinner layer on the hair. The difference between leave-in and pack conditioners is similar to the difference between fats and oils.
• Ordinary conditioners, combining some aspects of both pack and leave-in ones.
• Hold conditioners, based on cationic polyelectrolyte polymers, holding the hair in a desired shape. These have both the function and the composition similar to diluted hair gels.

Ingredients

Ingredients

There are several types of hair conditioner ingredients, differing in composition and functionality:

• Moisturizers, whose role is to hold moisture in the hair. Usually these contain high proportions of humectants.
• Reconstructors, usually containing hydrolyzed protein. Their role is supposedly to penetrate the hair and strengthen its structure through polymer crosslinking.
• Acidifiers, acidity regulators which maintain the conditioner's pH at about 2.5–3.5. In contact with acidic environment, the hair's somewhat scaly surface tightens up, as the hydrogen bonds between the keratin molecules are strengthened.
• Detanglers, which modify the hair surface by pH as acidifiers, and/or by coating it with polymers, as glossers.
• Thermal protectors, usually heat-absorbing polymers, shielding the hair against excessive heat, caused by, e.g., blow-drying or curling irons or hot rollers.
• Glossers, light-reflecting chemicals which bind to the hair surface. Usually polymers, usually silicones, e.g., dimethicone or cyclomethicone.
• Oils (EFAs - essential fatty acids), which can help dry/porous hair become more soft and pliable. The scalp produces a natural oil called sebum. EFAs are the closest thing to natural sebum (sebum contains EFAs).
• Surfactants - Hair consists of approximately 97% of a protein called keratin. The surface of keratin contains negatively-charged amino acids. Hair conditioners therefore usually contain cationic surfactants, which don't wash out completely, because their hydrophilic ends strongly bind to keratin. The hydrophobic ends of the surfactant molecules then act as the new hair surface.
• Lubricants, such as fatty alcohols, panthenol, dimethicone, etc
• Sequestrants, for better function in hard water.
• Antistatic agents
• Preservatives

Hair conditioner

Hair conditioner is a hair care product that alters the texture and appearance of human hair.

History

For centuries, natural oils have been used to condition human hair. These natural products are still used today, including essential oils such as tea tree oil and carrier oils such as jojoba oil. A conditioner popular with men in the late Victorian era was Macassar oil, but this product was quite greasy and required pinning a small cloth, known as an antimacassar, to chairs and sofas to keep the upholstery from being damaged by the Macassar oil.

Modern hair conditioner was created at the turn of the 20th century when well-known perfumer Ed. Pinaud presented a product he called brilliantine at the 1900 Exposition Universelle in Paris. His product was intended to soften men's hair, including beards and mustaches. Since the invention of Pinaud's early products, modern science has advanced the hair conditioner industry to include those made with silicone, fatty alcohols, and quaternary ammonium compounds. These chemical products allow the benefits of hair conditioner without feeling greasy or heavy.

Hair conditioner is different from cream rinse (often spelled "creme rinse"). A cream rinse is simply a detangler and, as its name implies, has a thinner consistency than conditioner. Hair conditioner is a thicker substance which coats the cuticle of the hair itself

History

History

A tin of Murray's Pomade

In the early 19th century bear fat was a common pomade ingredient,^[4] but by the early 20th century petroleum jelly,^[5] beeswax, and lard were more commonly used.^[6]

Pomades were once much more popular than they are today, although they have made somewhat of a comeback in 2010 with recent additions to the marketplace that feature far less lanolin or bees wax in their formulations. They are associated with the slick men's hairstyles of the early to middle 20th century that were first made popular by Rudolph Valentino. Recently, an increasing amount of attention has been brought back to the more classic "man about town" hair stylings of the mid 1950s and 1960s thanks in no small part to popular dramas like Mad Men.^{[citation needed]} Other more modern hairstyles involving the use of pomade include the Ducktail, Pompadour, and Quiff.

Early 20th century examples of pomade are Royal Crown Hair Dressing, originating in 1936 pictured above, or "Murray's Superior Pomade", originating in the 1920s ^[7] pictured right. Dixie Peach Hair Pomade was a popular pomade in the USA from World War II through the 1960s with teenage boys. In the late '90s, pomade grew from tradition to a general consumer product meaning any sort of solid "hair-styling product"; including waxes, glues, clays, and a variety of substances marketed under the original term.

Pomade

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A tin of Royal Crown pomade

Pomade (also called pomatum) is a greasy or waxy substance that is used to style hair. Pomade makes hair look slick and shiny. Unlike hair spray and hair gel, pomade does not dry and often takes several washes to remove. It can be easily removed using a high-detergent shampoo or other de-greasers such as olive oil, dish washing liquid^[1] and lemon juice.

Most pomades contain petroleum jelly (in fact, petroleum jelly can be used alone as a pomade) and mineral oil, and many also contain some sort of wax. They may be anhydrous or emulsified with an aqueous carrier, which makes them easier to remove.^[2] They may also contain perfume and coloring agents. A plethora of pomades are in production today and vary in factors such as weight, shine and scent. The stiffest will have a higher proportion of waxes such as beeswax while the lightest may have a higher proportion of oils.

Japan wax

Japan wax is a pale-yellow, waxy, water-insoluble solid with a gummy feel, obtained from the berries of certain sumacs native to Japan and China, such as Rhus verniciflua (Japanese sumac tree) and R. succedanea (Japanese wax tree).

Japan wax is a byproduct of lacquer manufacture. It is not a true wax but a fat that contains 10-15% palmitin, stearin, and olein with about 1% japanic acid (1,21-heneicosanedioic acid). Japan wax is sold in flat squares or disks and has a rancid odor. It is extracted by expression and heat, or by the action of solvents.

Uses

Japan wax is used chiefly in the manufacture of candles, furniture polishes, floor waxes, wax matches, soaps, food packaging, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, pastels, crayons, buffing compounds, metal lubricants, adhesives, thermoplastic resins, and as a substitute for beeswax.

Other names

Japan tallow; sumac wax; sumach wax; vegetable wax

Emulsifying waxbbbb

Emulsifying wax

Emulsifying wax is a cosmetic emulsifying ingredient. The ingredient name is often followed by the initials NF, indicating that it conforms to the specifications of the National Formulary.

Emulsifying wax is created when a wax material (either a vegetable wax of some kind or a petroleum-based wax) is treated with a detergent (typically sodium dodecyl sulfate or polysorbates) to cause it to make oil and water bind together into a smooth emulsion. It is a white waxy solid with a low fatty alcohol odor.

The ingredients for Emulsifying Wax NF are: Cetearyl Alcohol, Polysorbate 60, PEG-150 Stearate, and Steareth-20. It has the characteristics of cetyl alcohol combined with the viscosity building effect of stearyl alcohol as an effective thickener and helps form stable emulsions.

Castor wax

Castor wax, also called hydrogenated castor oil, is a hard, brittle, vegetable wax. It is produced by the hydrogenation (chemical combination with hydrogen) of pure castor oil, in the presence of a nickel catalyst. It is odorless and insoluble in water.

Uses

Castor wax is used in polishes, cosmetics, electrical capacitors, carbon paper, lubrication, and coatings and greases where resistance to moisture, oils and other petrochemical products is required. Castor wax is also useful in polyurethane coating formulation, as it contains three secondary hydroxyl group.These coating compositions are useful as a top coat varnish for leather, wood & rubber.

Uses

Uses

Sweets coated with carnauba wax

Carnauba wax can produce a glossy finish and as such is used in automobile waxes, shoe polishes, dental floss, food products such as sweets, instrument polishes, and floor and furniture waxes and polishes, especially when mixed with beeswax and with turpentine. Use for paper coatings is the most common application in the United States. It is the main ingredient in surfboard wax, combined with coconut oil.

Because of its hypoallergenic and emollient properties as well as its shine, carnauba wax appears as an ingredient in many cosmetics formulas where it is used to thicken lipstick, eyeliner, mascara, eye shadow, foundation, deodorant, various skin care preparations, sun care preparations, etc.^{[citation needed]} It is also used to make cutler's resin.

It is the finish of choice for most briar tobacco or smoking pipes. It produces a high gloss finish when buffed on to wood. This finish dulls with time rather than flaking off (as is the case with most other finishes used).

In foods, it is used as a formulation aid, lubricant, release agent, anticaking agent, and surface finishing agent in baked foods and mixes, chewing gum, confections, frostings, fresh fruits and juices, gravies, sauces, processed fruits and juices, soft sweets, Tic Tacs, Altoids, and Swedish Fish.

Although too brittle to be used by itself, carnauba wax is often combined with other waxes (principally beeswax) to treat and waterproof many leather products where it provides a high-gloss finish and increases leather's hardness and durability.

It is also used in the pharmaceutical industry as a tablet-coating agent. Adding the carnuaba wax aids in the swallowing of tablets for patients. A very small amount (less than a hundredth of 1 percent by weight. i.e.: 30 grams for a 300 kg batch) is sprinkled onto a batch of tablets after they've been sprayed and dried. The wax and tablets are then tumbled together for a few minutes before being discharged from the tablet-coating machine.

In 1890, Charles Tainter patented the use of carnauba wax on phonograph cylinders as a replacement for a mixture of paraffin and beeswax.

An aerosol mold release is formed by suspending carnauba wax in a solvent. This aerosol version is used extensively in molds for semiconductor devices. Semiconductor manufacturers also use chunks of carnauba wax to break in new epoxy molds or to release the plunger when it sticks.When used as a mold release, carnauba, unlike silicone or PTFE, is suitable for use with liquid epoxy, epoxy molding compounds (EMC), and some other plastic types. Carnauba wax is compatible with epoxies and generally enhances their properties along with those of most other engineering plastics.

Carnauba is used in melt/castable explosives to produce an insensitive explosive formula such as Composition B, which is a blend of RDX and TNT

Composition

Composition

Carnauba palm

The main components of carnauba are aliphatic esters (40 wt%), diesters of 4-hydroxycinnamic acid (21.0 wt%), ω-hydroxycarboxylic acids (13.0 wt%), and fatty acid alcohols (12 wt%). The compounds are predominantly derived from acids and alcohols in the C26-C30 range. Distinctive for carnauba wax is the high content of diesters as well as methoxycinnamic acid.^[3]

Carnauba wax is sold in several grades, labeled T1, T2, and T4, depending on the purity level. Purification is accomplished by filtration, centrifugation, and bleaching.

Carnauba wax

Carnauba wax

Carnauba, also called Brazil wax and palm wax, is a wax of the leaves of the palm Copernicia prunifera, a plant native to and grown only in the northeastern Brazilian states of Piauí, Ceará, and Rio Grande do Norte.^[1] It is known as "queen of waxes"^[2] and usually comes in the form of hard yellow-brown flakes. It is obtained from the leaves of the carnauba palm by collecting them, beating them to loosen the wax, then refining and bleaching the wax.